Archive for the ‘Deer Hunting & Management’ Category

The Right Knife for the Right Deer Hunting Job with J. Wayne Fears

Tuesday, December 21st, 2010

The old man was almost in tears when we picked the deer up from his stand after putting on a man-drive for deer. As he explained, “I knocked the buck down, and he was lying still on the ground. As I leaned my shotgun up against the tree and approached the deer, I realized that he was the biggest buck I’d ever had the opportunity to take. I reached in my pocket to get my knife out to cut his throat. At the same time I was reaching in my pocket, I grabbed the deer’s antlers to lift his head, when suddenly, the buck jumped-up and ran off. I couldn’t believe it. My buck of a lifetime was gone. I tried to follow him, but I couldn’t find any blood.”

The search for this trophy buck continued until the end of the day, but we never found the buck. A buck of a lifetime was lost because of several mistakes. To prevent this problem from happening to you, follow these steps:

  • assume that all downed deer are only dazed and not dead;
  • always approach a deer at the ready with your thumb on the safety and your finger near the trigger, and expect to have to make a shot if and when the deer gets up;
  • see if the buck’s chest cavity is moving as you approach the deer, which indicates that he’s still breathing, and check to see if any air is coming out of his nostrils;
  • touch the deer’s eye with the tip of your gun barrel or the broadhead on your arrow, and if the deer flinches, take another shot.

Make sure your deer is down for good.Then, set your gun and/or bow down, and take your Pro Tool Hunt Utility Knife out of its scabbard. Don’t cut the deer’s throat, especially if he’s a trophy buck that you want to get mounted. Cutting the throat just makes a big gash that the taxidermist will have to repair later. If you’re a long way from camp, use your Pro Tool Hunt Utility Knife to field dress your deer by opening the stomach and the chest cavity, and taking out all the entrails. Pull the deer’s head uphill, or lift the deer’s head to let the blood drain out of the cavity. Then, drag the deer to a nearby ATV, or call a friend to bring help and a vehicle to get your deer from the site where you’ve field dressed it back to camp. Unless you’re a high school or a college athlete, don’t attempt to drag the deer out by yourself, especially if you’re older, because the strain of dragging a 100- to a 200-pound deer can damage your heart, according to various hospital studies.

Once you get the deer back to camp, use your Pro Tool Hunt Utility Knife for caping. Make a cut up the backsides of the two front legs running from near the feet all the way to under the back part of the shoulder of the deer. Next make a cut all around the deer just under the skin, and begin to skin the cape, rolling it forward to just below the base of the ears. Disconnect the meat from the head where the neck attaches to the head. Skin the hide off, and cut the feet off with your Pro Tool Hunt Utility Knife. Then, quarter your animal, and/or debone and cut-up the meat.

Pro Tool Hunt Utility KnifeThe one knife that can help you take your downed trophy animal from the field to the freezer is the Pro Tool Hunt Utility Knife. For more information on this knife, click here.

Once you’ve turned your deer into venison, consider these two recipes.

Venison Creole
This recipe is simple yet delicious and tender.
Ingredients:
Thin slices of venison that you’ve soaked and immersed in salty water overnight in the refrigerator to remove blood, and then rinsed all salt off before preparation.
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 beef bouillon cube
1/2-cup water
Slices of tomato
Slices of green peppers
Flour
Onion slices
Celery pieces
Cornstarch
Mushrooms
Preparation:
Brown the venison in the butter or margarine. Add onion and celery pieces, sautéing until tender. Dissolve bouillon cube in water, and pour over venison mixture. Thicken with cornstarch. Pour into shallow baking dish. Add tomato, mushrooms and peppers. Bake 45 minutes at 350 degrees.

Chicken-Fried Venison Steaks
Ready-to-cook venisonPreparation:
Cut venison steaks 3/4-inch thick. Carefully cut-out tough membranes. Pound each piece with a meat mallet. Then soak, immersed in salty water overnight in refrigerator to remove blood, and rinse all salt off before preparation. Season with garlic or onion salt, freshly-ground black pepper and dredge in seasoned flour. Fry in a heavy skillet in 1/4-inch of fairly-hot Canola oil, browning well on both sides. Drain steaks on paper toweling, and keep warm. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons oil; add 3 tablespoons flour; heat; stir until bubbly. Add 1-1/2-cups milk, and cook on simmer, stirring until thickened. Taste and correct seasoning, if necessary.

The Woodman’s Pal – From a Hunting Knife to an Income Producer for Mitchell Leonard

Thursday, September 16th, 2010

Editor’s Note: Mitchell Leonard of Mooresville, North Carolina, bought a Woodman’s Pal LC-14-B, jungle fighting knife, at a flea market 30-years ago, and used it while working for the North Carolina Electric Cooperative to clear brush and cut-down trees and limbs.

Question: Mitchell, why did you buy a second Woodman’s Pal, since your first Pal was still in good shape, even after 30 years of use?

Leonard: I bought the second one because I got tired of carrying my Woodman’s Pal back home and putting it on my four wheeler when I was ready to go hunting. Then I’d have to take it with me when I went to work. I bought the second one, so I can have one to take hunting with me for cutting shooting lanes, building blinds and cutting trails. I also use its sickle hook to open the cavity on the deer and the hogs that I shoot during hunting season. I’ve found that the hook on the end of the Woodman’s Pal can cut through a deer or a hog’s sternum plate quickly and easily. By using this tool, I don’t have to dull my hunting knife by using it to cut through gristle and bone. I’ve even used the Woodman’s Pal to quarter deer and hogs in the field when I haven’t had a saw.

Question: So you have two Woodman’s Pals now, is that right?

Leonard: Not exactly. I had my Woodman’s Pal to take to work, which was the old one I’d bought at the flea market. Then I had my new Woodman’s Pal to take to the hunting club with me and keep on my four wheeler. But then I needed one for my home to cut brush and shrubbery and perform other odd jobs around the house.

Question: So now you have three Woodman’s Pals, is that right?

Leonard: Not exactly. I have a side business called The Foothills Trader. I sell knives and outdoor supplies, riflescopes and camping gear, so I became a dealer for Woodman’s Pals. Now I sell Woodman’s Pals. I thought that if I’d found so-many uses for this tool and needed three of them, then anybody I met surely needed at least one.

Question: Mitchell, why are most people buying the Woodman’s Pal from you at The Foothills Trader?

Leonard: I think there are two major reasons that so-many people are buying them. It’s a practical tool that can be used for many purposes around the home, at work or when you go hunting. But the other reason I think so-many people are buying it is because the Woodman’s Pal is one of the few American-made hand tools. Finding anything that’s built to last these days is hard. You can go to a discount store and pay $10 for an ax made in China. It’s dull when you take it out of the package. But if you buy a Woodman’s Pal, it will last you a lifetime.

To learn more about the handcrafted Woodman’s Pal, click here.

How to Use Your Woodman’s Pal to Prepare for Deer Season Now

Thursday, September 16th, 2010

Whether you plan to hunt deer this season with a bow or a gun, the better you prepare now, the greater your odds will be for taking a buck on opening day. Through the years, how many times have you readied for the shot when the deer has stepped behind a bush or a fallen tree and then turned and walked away from you – without your having the opportunity to take a shot. One of the secrets to consistently getting your buck every season is to know where the buck should appear and make sure you have a clean shooting lane. Then you can take the shot when the buck steps out.

One of the tools that knowledgeable hunters never go into the woods without is a Pro Tool Woodman’s Pal. This battle-tested tool has served in all the wars from WWII through Desert Storm and features a sharp, hard-cutting edge on one side, suitable for chopping down brush, small trees, cane and any other type of growth between your stand and the deer. On the other side of the tool, you’ll find a curved hook, which is ideal for pulling and cutting vines, pruning limbs and cutting or hacking any type of overhanging brush.

The real secret to cutting a shooting lane is to make the lane look as though it’s never been cut. Trim a 4- to a 5-foot-wide path from where you intend to place your stand out into thick cover. Once you’ve cut the bushes and the foliage, rearrange those trees, limbs and bushes, so they look like they haven’t been cut. Push the ends of the cut brush into the ground so that they seem to still be growing. Later on in the season, the leaves will fall off the bush and begin to die, which is a natural process that the deer are accustomed to seeing. Any limbs or grasses that you’re cutting out of your shooting lane should be rearranged on the outside of the shooting lane to appear natural.

Once you have the shooting lane cut, if you’ll be hunting from a tree stand, especially a climbing tree stand, climb the tree with the stand, put the stand in the exact spot where you plan to hunt from during the season. Make sure there are no trees or branches in front of you that need to be removed. If so, use the Woodman’s Pal to clear those shooting lanes also. If you’ll be hunting from a ground blind, besides clearing the shooting lanes, carry a small piece of rope with you that‘s the exact diameter of the base of your ground blind, especially if you’re using a tent-type ground blind. Put one end of the string where you plan to place the center of your ground blind, and then use that string to walk around what will be the outer perimeter of your ground blind. Make sure you have all the trees and brush cleared from that area, and most importantly, the little stumps of trees and bushes that you’ve cleared for your ground blind. These little stumps and stick-ups can puncture holes in the base of your ground blind, if you don’t chop those stumps down or even below the ground. After you have the shooting lanes cut for your tree stand or ground blind, you’ll be ready for opening day of deer season. Tell no one where you’ve created a stand site, because if you tell your hunting companions, they’ll hunt from the spot you’ve cleared. And, don’t plan to go to that site, until you have a favorable wind, and the conditions are right to take that buck of a lifetime.